Day 10: Monday 20th July
81 km and 709 m of ascent. 28 C and a windy afternoon
Today’s journey was from Royan to Rochefort, along a very different coastline to that which I’d experienced on the long journey from Biarritz northwards through the pine forests. This time, one could actually view the coast at quite a number of points, rather than cycling through pine trees. Pine trees are lovely, but there is a limit!
Part of this journey is with my cycling buddies, Joy and Greg. Here, Greg had photographed me next to the traditional shrimp net hutment. The nets are lowered into the water on the tide so as to harvest the little creatures . Further on, we see evidence of another beautiful lighthouse which has been preserved as an icon along this coast.
Here, I am standing at the very mouth of the Gironde River, and I recall my reading of the Cockleshell Heroes who were launched from a submarine somewhere near here to then canoe down the Gironde River to Bordeaux to blow up German cargo ships. I think they had to canoe 70 miles, hiding in daylight amongst the marshes before they got to the target area. The weather wasn’t like this it was Autumn and stormy and wet. Sadly, I think only two of the Cockleshell Heroes survived.
I now cycle away from the main coast, leaving behind L’île d’Oléron (one day I will get there on day!)
There are still sand dunes, but they are much lower. The challenge now was to get over it’s very high road bridge in very windy conditions. It took ages to walk my bike over the bridge. I was compensated by going into an old town on the northern side. Marennes has a wonderful market square. I had a superb meal for €14.50 next to the old market. Super!
I now cycle across very flat marshland with a strong headwind. It’s quite a remote place. I saw a heron, a sparrow hawk and egrets as well as little animals scurrying away into the muddy banks near the roadside. Here is one animal that just eyeballed me! I also encounter a disused canal
Eventually I near the outskirts of Rochefort. I come to a second challenging bridge, and I decide that I’m not going to take this one because of the high winds.
Eventually, I find a sign saying, “To the transporter bridge,” and I think, “Well, that’s got to be a better alternative than being blown about up there.” So I take the signpost, and eventually I have to ask a couple of army guys if they can direct me, and they were very helpful in showing me the route to the bridge.
This is a wonderful construction, and I’m so pleased it’s now being preserved, albeit just for cyclists and pedestrians. A much safer way to cross the river, and very enjoyable. Check out this short video:
Having crossed the transporter bridge, I followed the velo route alongside the river right into the centre. The cycle path takes you into the old naval port, which is fascinating.
From the local tourist office:
The Transbordeur Bridge is a landmark in Rochefort Ocean which spans over the Charente river, between Rochefort and Echillais. Figure head of the the Grand Site de France “Estuaire de la Charente – Arsenal de Rochefort”, it is an emblematic structure. Fully built in iron, steel and cast iron, the bridge may remind you of the Eiffel Tower ! A true technical feat, it opened in 1900. This structure of the French engineer Ferdinand Arnodin, was operated until 1967. Listed as a Historic Monument in 1976, it resumed service in 1994 for pedestrians and cyclists.