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Guernica to Basque Coast and to Deba

Day 2: 12th July 2026: Guernica to Deba

I thought day two was going to be a breeze, quite frankly. The weather was cooler than the tremendous heat of the previous day, slightly cloudy, and much lower temperatures.  I cycled up to Lekeitio on the coast, which is a wonderfully lively port and holiday centre with superb beaches and an old town centred around what looked to me like an ancient cathedral, but it was probably just a church.

Lekeitio in the distance and the beach in the foreground

A longboat rowing race had just finished which is a serious sport around here, and there was much celebration going on with the winning team. Even the other teams were very buoyant and joining in the atmosphere. Cafes were full. Tapas bars were very tempting. I stopped for a coffee and met a really interesting guy, Sigur, (a Basque name) who had doubts about whether or not Ukraine should be supported. Clearly, he didn’t know a lot about the situation, and I recommended he watch things like France 24 and Al Jazeera as opposed to maybe more biased channels. He asked a lot of questions, and I hope I succeeded in convincing him to look at it more closely. We couldn’t speak for long, as his wife wanted to get on with her shopping, which is a pity, but there we are.

I was tempted to go and jump in the water, but it was still morning, about 11:00, so I thought I’d better get going, because I had quite a few climbs to make on the way to Deba.  So I cycled on, and there were great views of the sea from the cliffs, and the coastal road wound its way around headlands and through hilltop peaks.

However, as the day wore on, the heat increased, and we were back to almost the temperatures of the first day, 33 degrees. My Garmin had plotted a course where the ascent was 660 meters, but when I paused to take a break, I found that the whole thing was going to take me over 900 meters of ascent. Although the distance is nothing to speak of very much, there were hill after hill. Although the views were great, I’m afraid I couldn’t get beyond the centre of Deba and had to check into a hotel there, which is where I met up with my cycling friends Greg and Joy.

It’s quite clear that the hills along this Basque Coast are really something to be wary of. I was absolutely exhausted when I got to Deba and couldn’t go on to the hotel, which I’d booked up over the hill into the next valley. That would be another 250 meters of ascent, and there’s no way I could do that. However, the compensation was the beautiful hotel, which my friends were staying in, and I enjoyed the swimming pool, seawater swimming pool in the hotel, and I enjoyed the air-conditioned room.

The winding road

Most of the route was along a main road. Not a motorway, not a trunk road, but a main road. Probably the original road that connected places along this coast, but now there’s a motorway inland and there’s less traffic, but there’s still a fair amount of traffic. There were just one short cycle path of 4 km. One of the problems of cycling in the Basque Country is there’s so little information about routes, and the maps are inadequate for cyclists. However, it was a Sunday, and there were lots of people out cycling, like the previous day. I never had any trouble with any of the motorists or lorry drivers. They all respected my position on the road, and they also respected the fact that going uphill, I was going to be rather slow.

Ondarroa

Despite all of this, it was worthwhile cycling along this coast because there are some beautiful little villages and inlets. You could spend a whole month visiting the different sandy beaches and enjoying the landscape and the scenery. If you don’t want to do the cycling and if you don’t want to take a car, there’s also a narrow gauge railway which runs along this coast and will enable you to visit some of the places like Deba, and also get you onward to San Sebastian and into France.

Deba

Guernica’s Legacy and medical aid for Ukraine Aid

Day 1: Afternoon of 11th July 2026

After my ride from Bilbao, I focused on the reason why I’ve come to Guernica. I felt I had to come to Guernica. This was the place where aerial bombardment of civilians first took place in 1937 as part of the Civil War, with General Franco getting assistance from Nazi bombers to obliterate the town. No thought was given to civilians. Today, President Putin is doing exactly the same thing, targeting civilians. It makes me both immensely sad and angry.

 

In the Peace Museum in Guernica, and indeed outside the museum, there are photographs and information about the terrible event in 1937. The museum was created to try and remind everyone of why the bombing of civilians should never happen again. Sadly though, the bombing of civilians has carried on through the Second World War and in the decades since that war. 

Now we have the disaster which is unfolding in Iran. We have terrible devastation in Gaza with tens of thousands dead and over 1.5 million homeless and we have the invasion of Ukraine which has gone on for four and a half years.. The bombing of civilians continues across Ukraine, and especially in the capital, Kyiv. Estimates show that nearly 70,000 Ukrainian civilians have been killed or injured. Worse still estimates show that combined military casualties (killed and wounded) in the war in Ukraine exceed 2,000,000 (two million.

What can we do? Well, I’m working with others in the United Kingdom to send medical aid, supplies for hospitals, and ambulances to Ukraine to help the civilians cope with the ongoing bombardment. My cycle ride focuses on fundraising. If you feel moved at all, please donate whatever you can. Thank you very much.

I was uplifted during a conversation with a young Australian in the museum when I asked him why he had visited the place. He certainly was disgusted with what had happened all those years ago in Guernica. He is very concerned by the killing in Ukraine, the Middle East, and other places around the world. What a good guy he is. We need more young men and women like him. Afterwards, I noticed that Louis, the Australian, had donated to the fund. Thanks to him.

 

Here I stand by a replica of Picasso’s anti-war painting in Guernica. it was painted shortly after the bombing


 

Bilbao to Guernica

Day 1: 11th July 2026

The journey from England to Bilbao had been very smooth with calm seas. On arrival it was very enjoyable talking to other cyclists in the passport queue. They were departing in all sorts of directions. A number were following a similar route to mine up in to France. But nevertheless, I was concerned about my onward journey, as my route took me into Bilbao and then out across the steep hills to Guernica, which was my first stop. As it turns out, the way into Bilbao is very good for cyclists. There is a cycleway almost all the way into the centre.

I stopped at the Guggenheim Museum, which is one of the most significant buildings in the city. The cycle path took me straight there. 

On the way in, over a distance of probably about 10 miles, you  pass by very old industrial buildings, some of which are still in a state of decay, whereas others have been cleared and new buildings put up. Some of the old architecture, including cranes on the dockside, have been preserved. I had breakfast on the way in, which consisted of a café con leche and a bocadillo, as well as a  freshly made glass of orange juice. When I got to the Guggenheim Museum, I took the chance to have a coffee overlooking the park which surrounds it. There were many tourists there. Still a very popular place. By now the weather’s hotting up, and temperatures reached at least 33 C. 

I was most concerned about how I would get from here to Guernica, because I knew that the only way would be on a main road for about 15miles. But luckily enough, it was a Saturday, and there were hardly any big lorries and, to be honest, very little traffic. But what there were, was lots of cyclists. It’s obviously a very popular sport around here, and you could see lots of groups cycling along in their super Lycra uniforms. 

Beautiful countryside!
Those climbs!

After some long while, I take the turning to Guernica, and this is a much quieter road, but this is where the hills are, which was concerning. My Garmin device showed me some steep hills, and I was concerned about not being able to restart if I stopped on a hairpin bend, of which there were many. As it turned out, it wasn’t as bad as I feared, and I crested the hill with only one small ascent to come, and mostly downhill to Guernica. 

The journey:

The whole journey was completed between about 9:00 a.m. and 2:30, so I had the rest of the day to visit Guernica, which was an important objective on this charity mission for Ukraine.

Traditional Basque house

The Journey Begins!

My journey has begun!

Yesterday I departed from Lewes in Sussex for the ferry journey from Portsmouth onboard the Brittany Ferries ship ‘Galicia.’  Right now I’m off the cape of Finistère Brittany. No I haven’t transferred to the yacht!! Just a to the cape view on this beautiful morning!

On the ferry I have met  fellow cyclists Greg and Joy. Amazingly they are following much the same route as me up the west coast of France on the Atlantic Coast Route EuroVelo 1 (La Vélodyssée)

Tomorrow at 7am (UK time) the cycle ride begins in Bilbao!

 



 

Europe on the Edge with Katya Adler

Report by Victor S Ient  

Europe on the Edge with Katya Adler

If you are interested in travelogues or current affairs and geopolitics this is an amazing BBC series to watch. See: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m002s6ym

It spells out the challenges on many different fronts, –  from  the Mafia in Italy to NATO’s role in an aggressive Trump era to climate change in Spain and space rocket technology in French Guiana.

I have watched this three part series in a bit by bit fashion which is one of the benefits of BBC iPlayer. in some parts she’s raising some very concerning issues but in the final episode her visit to the European Space Agency was inspiring seeing people from all over Europe working together building our own satellites. It was also interesting about how big the European Airbus aircraft construction company is with  manufacturing being carried out across Europe.

Katya Adler explores a continent facing renewed instability after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, shifting US commitment to NATO under Donald Trump, and rising migration. Despite this serious backdrop, the series often feels like a scenic travelogue, with Adler moving from Italy’s beaches and Siena’s horse races to Bavaria’s fairy-tale castles, highlighting Europe’s enduring charm and its cultural sense of Gemütlichkeit—a cosy, contented way of life now under threat.

Beneath the postcard imagery lies a more troubling message: Europe’s major powers—Germany, France, Italy and Spain—are divided and struggling to respond cohesively to global pressures. In Italy, scepticism about supporting Ukraine reflects both political nostalgia and economic dependence on Russian energy. Germany’s historical guilt still shapes perspectives on Russia, sometimes in questionable ways. France aspires to lead Europe independently of the US but is constrained by domestic economic pressures, while Spain prioritises climate change over defence spending, limiting its geopolitical role.

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[The image at the head of this article is to accredited to – S. Corvaja  ESA Standard Licence]

 



 

Putin!

Yesterday, 19th Feb 2026,  the Russia-Ukraine peace talks ended without breakthrough. Next week on the 24th it will be the 4th anniversary of the Russian invasion into Ukraine.  To mark this anniversary I’m publishing a few articles. This one sets the historical background so far as my personal experience is of the ‘Putin effect’.  

My fears have increased over the decades in tandem with increasing grip on power. The subject matter of Putin’s rise to power is too wide for me to cover in a short article. I recommend reading the book by Masha Gesson entitled ‘Man Without a Face – the Unlikely Rise of Vladimir Putin. 

But for now let’s turn to Latvia and my first introduction to the ‘Putin effect’.  I was lucky enough to visit Latvia shortly after it gained independence from the USSR, (Russia, as it is now). It was an interesting and enjoyable visit, and I loved talking to the people there. They were… seemed to me a peaceful, loving nation.  However, now let’s turn to some darker days back in the 1970s when Latvia was within the USSR. On my travels in Latvia, I met two lady university lecturers. They told me of their story of being arrested during the night at their homes and bundled into cattle wagons in a horrid journey of 2 weeks, to Siberia to a gulag, where they spent the next 20 plus years in a hard labour camp. . They were beautiful ladies, but when you looked at their hands, they were gnarled and disfigured by hard labour. They showed me their house, which had been confiscated by the party elite for their Baltic seaside holidays. They explained to me that the KGB lieutenant colonel who was in charge of the operation was Vladimir Putin. You could hear the fear in their voices, even though they were in a free country now, Latvia. Their only crime was to be teaching English literature studies. Effectively, the communist regime of the time was trying to get rid of the intelligentsia in Latvia. 

The lecturer’s fears were confirmed when I visited a farmer whose home is out in the east of Latvia which is within an hour’s drive of the Russian border. The farmer said that the biggest worry he has was the fear of waking one morning to seeing Russian tanks roll across the open plains to the east of Riga, the capital of Latvia.

Western business and governments 

After the rise to power of Putin, I was very surprised by how quickly various companies in the west scrambled around to make deals with Putin, and the Russian newfound major corporations. For instance BP was one of these. By 2022 it had become a major long-term investor in Russia stretching back over 30 years.  Why on earth did Germany agree to the installation of a gas pipeline in the Baltic direct to Germany? Angela Merkel should have seen the warning signs at the meeting she had with Putin in 2007. Putin allowed his big dog to wander near her during a photo opportunity, which many observers viewed as a calculated, intimidating “power play”.

Meeting with a young Russian business executive. 

I have always wanted to talk to a young Russian and find out why there is such unequivocal support for Mr Putin. My opportunity came whilst staying at a beach resort hotel in South East Asia in 2009.  I had a very interesting conversation with a 33 year old Russian businessman about politics in Russia. We were both in the bar enjoying our happy hour drinks overlooking the sea and met. Quite soon, my wife & Egor’s wife left us to our conversation of politics and democracy. He was from the north near the White Sea. His English was very good, having spent two years at Newcastle University. He was a sales manager working for a very large coal company responsible for dealing with eastern Europe and some western companies like EDF. He asked me to be quite frank with my questions so I asked him, “why does he, and so many young Russians support Putin when so many of us in the west fear his motives and his tactics?” I said that I had been to Latvia some years ago and had heard about Mr Putin being an ex KGB colonel and that the Latvians feared him very much.

He dismissed the Latvian view, saying that people in power in Latvia were not democratic and that the country was just being controlled by a few powerful businessmen. When I queried the tactics being employed against the opposition parties in Russia he just simply answered that in the presidential elections in the USA 4 years ago Al Gore got more votes than George Bush, but did not win. I tried to explain that the vote was very close and the Electoral College system could lead to anomalies in such cases. He didn’t seem to be prepared to discuss the intimidation of opposition leaders and journalists in Russia as undemocratic.  I queried him on the control of the press by Mr Putin and he simply answered by saying that the BBC was a mouthpiece for the British government and that Russia didn’t get a fair hearing.

We parted good friends but the conversation certainly troubled me. For instance, Egor at one point said that Mr Putin was the best leader that they had had for a hundred years and he was the best leader in the world, by far. Ho hum! What hope is there for real democracy?

Ukraine is a bulwark against Putin’s Territorial expansion.

In my opinion Ukraine is a bulwark against Putin’s expansionist programme against the West. If Ukraine falls then Putin will expand his territorial ambitions to the eastern European countries.

We must stand fast with Ukraine to ensure their freedom and to prevent Putin from trying to expand his Empire.  He got away with the invasion of Crimea and I think he thought he was getting away with the invasion of Ukraine itself but it has now dragged out into a war which is nearly as long as the WWII with casualties both for the  Ukrainian military forces and the civil population in Ukraine but also for Russian forces who have no choice but to do Putin’s bidding. 

 



 

Ukrainian choir concert – Sat 21 Feb

Ukrainian Hearts presents: 

 

Ukrainian choir concert – 4 years of resilience!  

featuring local choirs: Ukrainian Voices & Nebo – Zemlia  with director Liudmyla Kulakova

Saturday 21 February 2026 6pm -8pm   Doors open at 5.30 pm £10 on the door children under 16- free  – After – tea/coffee, food, chat

Venue: Trinity Church, St. John Sub Castro, Abinger Place Lewes, BN7 2QA

Profit will go to support Ukrainian hearts initiatives and children’s oncology hospitals in Ukraine

 

 

 

 


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Stand fast with Ukraine! 4th Anniversary of the Russian Invasion

Author: Victor S Ient    citizen journalist

Stand Fast with Ukraine

This year, during my travels, I will visit Guernica in Spain — a place that stands as a solemn reminder of the human cost of war. In 1937, during the Spanish Civil War, Guernica became the site of one of the first instances of mass aerial bombardment deliberately directed at civilians, carried out by Nazi forces. It marked a devastating turning point in modern warfare. Tragically, what was once considered unthinkable has since become an all-too-familiar feature of conflict especially in Ukraine.

Nearly every night, Putin’s forces launch missile and drone attacks on Ukrainian cities, targeting power stations and residential blocks but civilians going about their everyday business. The consequences are severe. Ukrainian winters are unforgiving — with temperatures frequently plunging below –20°C — and the deliberate destruction of energy infrastructure places millions at risk with no heating and cooking facilities. It is difficult to comprehend that, four years on, these mass rocket and drone attacks continue even as so-called peace talks persist. While diplomatic discussions make headlines, the bombardment has not ceased. Yet amid the devastation, there is resilience.

I am profoundly encouraged by the extraordinary efforts of Ukrainians here in the United Kingdom, working alongside British volunteers, to send essential civilian supplies to those in need. Generators, ambulances, and medical equipment are being delivered to support communities under constant bombardment. Even more inspiring is the unwavering courage and determination of Ukrainians who face nightly attacks with remarkable strength and dignity.

The Russian invasion may not end quickly. However, European governments remain resolute in their commitment to ensuring that Ukraine does not fall victim to imperial aggression. The Ukrainian people must not become prisoners in their own land, nor casualties of a despotic expansionist leader.

History teaches us the cost of silence and indifference allows despotic rulers to prosper. Guernica reminds us why we must stand fast with Ukraine.


PS: I recommend following the news releases by the Kyiv Independent. The Kyiv Independent online news journal reports just yesterday of more Russian attacks on Ukraine saying at least 5 killed, 13 injured (February 14, 2026 12:18 pm)

 



 

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