Day 12/13- Aurec-sur-Loire to Roanne and on to Bourbon-Lancy

Day 12 and 13: 31st May and 1st June 2025

Today, the 31st of May, I continue on the road above the Gorge Loire at first, then dow, away from Gorges de Loire to a much flatter landscape. Howeve, the ascent was still 677m. I covered 92km to my evening stopover.

The towns in this area were very disappointing. Many shops were closed. This is probably due to massive out-of-town shopping developments. This really is sad for life in the towns. A complete change from the Gorges de Loire and previous cycle rides. I crossed the Loire at Montrond-les-Bains on a superb cycle track bridge, which was a former railway line. I met a couple on the bridge who immediately recognised my Ukrainian flag badge and they gave a thumbs up.

I continued my journey along this much flatter landscape but decided to stay on a main road because the clouds were gathering and I didn’t want to be caught on a trackway in the rain. The road, although busy, offered a faster direct route. The sting in the tail of this cycle ride was the steep climb to the small hilltop village of Neulise. The clouds were gathering even more worrying were the winds. I was being buffeted around. Finally, I got to the town. There was just one bar open. I took refuge inside just before the heavens opened. I was lucky! Here, I met Herve, the owner of the bar/restaurant. We had an enjoyable chat. He had good English because he had spent his earlier life as a child in Burnley, in Lancashire.

Finally, the wind dropped and the rain eased so I said my goodbyes and completed the last 12 kilometres of my journey. Earlier in the day it had been very hot and after the rains the road surface was steaming!

At the cosy Logis de France hotel at Parigny I was offered traditional fare from the countryside, – either sheep’s brain or pig’s trotter!! I chose a small taster of pig’s trotter. A most convivial establishment. All round the meal was great.

The next day, 1st of June, I set off from the hotel and cycled into Roanne. I didn’t think much of this town, I must admit, so I was glad to be back onto the River Loire route. Firstly, I cycled alongside the Loire, and then alongside the Loire Canal. Very beautiful and tranquil.

After about an hour, one leaves the canal path at Briennon and crosses the River Loire to join an old railway line on which I travelled for many miles. The track was well surfaced and very smooth. Near Marcigny I stopped at an old railway station. One of the buildings had been renovated and turned into a cafe. Here I found myself in my seventh heaven, – an old railway line, (cycle path) , an old railway station and a cafe! The café au lait was one the best I have had. I also had a charcuterie and salad lunch here. I resisted the crêpes.

I could have stayed but there was still a long way to go. The railway line and canal path took me to my destination. In all, I had travelled a 100 km either on the river, canal or railway line. All completely off road. Cycling heaven!

Along the way i ha many reminders that I was in Charolais cattle country

My stay tonight is at the Grand Hôtel, Parc Thermal, Bourbon Lancy. On arrival I was told, being Sunday the spa facilities were closed. That’s probably why it was so cheap! Closure of bars and hotel restaurants on Sundays and even on weekdays, is a problem these days in France. Luckily my hotel restaurant was open albeit with a much reduced menu. Still I enjoyed staying in a once ‘grand’ hotel with all of its faded glory set in quiet park surroundings.